Gripped, The Climbing Podcast

Sonnie Trotter on Climbing Midnight Way 5.15

Episode Summary

Sonnie Trotter talks about climbing Midnight Way, one of Canada’s hardest sport climbs. The 35-metre 5.15a on the Paradise Wall in Squamish was Trotter’s first of the grade. At 46 years and 11 months, he's also one of the oldest, if not the oldest, to climb a 5.15. Midnight Way was first climbed by Connor Herson in summer 2024. Squamish local Ben Harnden made the second ascent in 2025, followed by Jonathan Siegrist and, earlier this year, Mike Foley. After his third ascent, Siegrist remarked: “Didn’t think it could get any better than Spirit Quest, but this is it. Amazing crimping, technical testpiece.” Trotter noted that he had spent more than 60 days at Paradise Wall over the past four seasons. “It was a serious battle (over 40 min on the face) and required a mini miracle, but I’m so glad I kept showing up,” he said. “I think my 16-year-old self would be proud too.” Trotter is one of Canada’s most accomplished climbers, with landmark ascents dating to the late 1990s. He was the first climber ever covered in Gripped magazine – read the story here. Notable sends include Forever Expired 5.14d (FA, unrepeated), Estado Crítico 5.14d, Spirit Quest 5.14d, The Path 5.14R trad (FA), Cobra Crack 5.14 trad (FA), Rhapsody 5.14c R (second ascent), The Prophet 5.13d R (second ascent), El Niño — Pineapple Express variation (5.13c, 26 pitches, FA), The Prow Wall 5.14 (FA), Family Man 5.14b trad (FA), The Ewbank Route 5.13b R (FFA), and the Rockies Trilogy, among others. Visit gripped.com for daily #climbing news